Skiing in Gulmarg: A First-Timer's Guide to Kashmir in Winter
Winter 7 min read

Skiing in Gulmarg: A First-Timer's Guide to Kashmir in Winter

Gulmarg has some of the highest lift-served skiing on earth, and it is far easier to try than most travellers realise.

Why Gulmarg

The gondola climbs from 2,730 m to 3,979 m, making Phase 2 one of the highest lift-served ski areas anywhere. The bowl above the treeline catches enormous amounts of snow, and off-piste skiers come from Europe for it. It is also, for a beginner, a genuinely friendly hill with wide slopes and instructors who grew up on it.

When to come

January and February are the safest bet for snow. March can be excellent, with longer days and warmer weather, though the lower slopes get heavy by afternoon. December is a gamble — sometimes deep, sometimes bare. If your ski holiday depends on snow, book January and be prepared for the road from Srinagar to close for a day.

Lift, gondola, or ponies

There are three ways up. The gondola (Phase 1 and 2) is the obvious one. The lifts and the pony track handle the lower slopes. Beginners usually start on the lower bowls and only go to Phase 2 with an instructor — Phase 2 is high, exposed and can be closed by cloud without warning.

What it costs to be honest about

Ski hire and lessons in Gulmarg are far cheaper than in the Alps, and the skiing itself is more limited in terms of groomed piste. Come for powder, for the setting, and for the strangeness of a gondola above a meadow full of ponies. Do not expect a European resort operation.

The practical bits

You need proper boots and a good jacket — hire shops stock both, quality varies, and we check them. Heating in Gulmarg hotels is the thing guests complain about most, so we inspect every winter room for a working bukhari and hot water before we list it. Take goggles: without them, a flat-light afternoon in the bowl is genuinely disorienting.

Beyond the slopes

Snowboarding, snowshoe walks through the treeline, sledging, and simply sitting in a hut at the top of Phase 2 with kahwa watching the pans. Non-skiers come with skiers and have a good time more often than you would think.

From reading to going

Tell us your dates and we will build the rest.

Every itinerary is planned for one group at a time, with a written quotation and no published price list.

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