Skiing in Gulmarg: A First-Timer’s Guide to Kashmir in Winter

Gulmarg sits at 2,730 m in the Pir Panjal, and the gondola takes you to Apharwat at 3,979 m. That is more vertical than most resorts in the Alps offer, with far fewer people on the mountain, which is why serious skiers come from Japan, Europe and Russia every February.

Why beginners are welcome too

The lower bowl above the meadow is gentle, wide and forgiving, with certified local instructors who have taught first-timers for years. Most of our winter guests have never skied before, and a half day of instruction is enough to enjoy the beginner slope and the lower runs.

Rentals (skis, boots, poles, helmet, jacket and trousers) are all available on the meadow.

The seasons

• Late December to early January: snow arrives but coverage can be thin at the base. Good value, quiet.
• Mid-January to end February: peak. Deepest snow, best conditions, busiest fortnight around New Year.
• March: still excellent at altitude, warmer days, shorter lift queues.
• April: upper slopes often skiable, lower slopes slushy. Season winds down.

Costs to plan for

• Lift pass: the gondola is the lift. Phase 1 covers the beginner and intermediate terrain; Phase 2 gets you to the summit ridge.
• Ski school: private instructors charge by the session; groups are cheaper per head.
• Rentals: full sets by the day.
• Transport: roads above Tangmarg require chains in heavy snow, and only certain vehicles are permitted.

We bundle gondola tickets and a day of equipment into the Gulmarg Snow Escape package and quote instructors as an add-on.

What to pack for Gulmarg in winter

1. Thermal base layers, two sets, top and bottom
2. Insulated waterproof jacket and salopettes (or rent on the meadow)
3. Ski gloves, a neck gaiter and a warm hat that fits under a helmet
4. Goggles and sunglasses, flat light is real at 4,000 m
5. Sunscreen and lip balm; the UV at altitude in snow is brutal
6. Proper snow boots for walking around the village
7. A power bank, batteries die fast in the cold

Beyond the slopes

• Sledging on the slope below the gondola, run by local boys with wooden sledges
• Snow bikes and ATVs at the meadow
• Horse-drawn sledges on the Gulmarg–Tangmarg road
• A day in Srinagar: a heated houseboat, harissa breakfast in the old city and noon chai by the fire

Two honest warnings

Weather changes fast. The gondola closes for wind and snow without much notice, and roads close above Tangmarg after heavy falls. Build a spare day into your plan if skiing is the main reason for your trip.

Altitude still applies. 3,979 m is high. Seasoned skiers arriving from sea level feel it on day one. Take the first day easy, drink water and skip the alcohol.